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First Nations culinary experts explore traditional Indigenous cuisine

First Nations chefs and culinary experts seek to remind Indigenous people about their culinary roots, while educating others on traditional dishes and ingredients. For the first time ever, West Vancouver's Harmony Arts Festival features an Indigenous showcase.

Local chefs and culinary experts are bringing Indigenous cuisine to the forefront of the foodie scene

Culinary expert Inez Cook at her restaurant Salmon n Bannock, which she co-founded. (Submitted)

First Nations culinary talents in Vancouver are looking to bring their food to the forefront.

This year is the first time in 28 years that an Indigenous showcase is featured at Vancouver's Harmony Arts Festival.

"At the district of West Vancouver we've been doing lots of learning about the Squamish Nation and the Coast Salish territories, and we wanted to feature that here at the festival," West Vancouver's manager of special events, Christie Rosta, told On the Coast guest host Angela Sterritt.

The festival is on until Sunday, Aug.12, at Ambleside Landing in West Vancouver on the unceded land of the Coast Salish people.

'Food from the land'

Earlier this week atthe festival, a sold-outIndigenous feast featuredslow-cooked bison,clams steamed in bentwood cedar boxes and'oolichanin a blanket' little fish wrapped in pastry.Oolichanis a delicacy for Indigenous people on B.C.'s North and CentralCoast.

Rostacreatedthe menu for Tuesday's Indigenous feastwith local culinary expert Inez Cook who provided knowledge abouttraditional foods.

Cook, of theNuxalkNation, is the owner of Salmon n' Bannock in Vancouver. It is the city's only First Nations restaurant.

Cook described the menu items for the Indigenous feast as "food from the land."

Oolichan in a blanket' at the Indigenous feast at Vancouvers Harmony Arts Festival. Oolichan is a delicacy for people indigenous to the Northwest coast of B.C. (Angela Sterritt/CBC)

Latash-Maurice Nahanee of the Squamish Nation curated the art exhibition at Harmony Arts Festival's Indigenous showcase and says food is another way to share culture.

"We believe that family meals are such an important way of showing your love for each other by sharing a meal and sharing time together out of your busy day," Nahanee told Sterritt.

Festival-goers will be able to visit the region's first Indigenous food truck, Chef Paul Natrall's Mr. Bannock.

Exploring Indigenous culinary roots

Those interested in exploring Indigenous cuisine can do so even after the festival ends.

The BigHeart Bannock Cultural Caf is headed by Lauraleigh Paul Yuxweluputun'aat of Coast Salish, Interior Salishand Carrier heritage. She provides brunch at the Skwachys Lodge on Pender Street in downtown Vancouverevery weekend.

Inez Cook's curated menu at the Indigenous feast included bison that was slow-cooked for 24 hours. (Angela Sterritt/CBC)

"Their mandate at the cafe is really two-fold," On the Coast food columnist Gail Johnson told Sterritt. "It's to revive the palate for wild foods in Indigenous urbanized settings. And they also want to educate and inform those whom they call Canadian allies about the foods their people have been eating for millennia"

These foods include alfalfa nettles, licorice roots, spruce tips and cedar.

"Even though what they're doing is old thousands and thousands of years old it's still new to a lot of non-Indigenous people," says Johnson.

Yuxweluputun'aat's brunches feature homemade strawberry sweetgrassjam, Salish herbal jam with hibiscus flowers, bison sausage and wild boar sausage pattieswith elderberry aioli.

"It's all about reminding Indigenous people about their culinary roots, and nourishing everybody that walks in the door," says Johnson.

Left to right, Lauraleigh Paul Yuxweluputunaat and Larissa Grieves of BigHeart Bannock Cafe. (Gail Johnson)

Listen to the full story here:


With files from On The Coast and Angela Sterritt