Food & Wine Magazine names Surrey as one of the world's best emerging food cities - Action News
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Food & Wine Magazine names Surrey as one of the world's best emerging food cities

International recognition of Surrey's burgeoning food scene is long overdue, say local foodies.

'Vindicated,' says Surrey foodie about international recognition of its culinary scene

Tobias Brown cooks up a batch of jerk chicken in the parking lot of the community kitchen in the Cloverdale neighbourhood of Surrey, B.C.
Tobias Brown cooks up a batch of jerk chicken in the parking lot of the community kitchen in the Cloverdale neighbourhood of Surrey, B.C. (Gian Paolo Mendoza/CBC)

Surrey, B.C.foodies saythey've long been singing the praises of the city's culinary scene and are glad to finally see it gain international recognition.

Food &Wine Magazine, an American publication targeting gourmands, has named Surrey as one of seven "next great food cities" in its May 2023 issue.

B.C.'s fastest-growing city, located just east of Vancouver,was given the title alongside other big cities, including Venice, Marseille and Kanazawa in Japan. Surrey was the only Canadian city to make the list.

Surrey food blogger Raj Thandhi says she almost cried when she heard the news.

"I love this city," she says. "I was so vindicated ... I've been saying this for years that Surrey has the best food scene."

Food blogger Raj Thandhi took CBC's Lien Yeung to Dragon Wok for a taste of Indo-Chinese cuisine as an example of the varied regions and tastes represented in Surrey's restaurants.
Food blogger Raj Thandhi took CBC's Lien Yeung to Dragon Wok for a taste of Indo-Chinese cuisine as an example of the varied regions and tastes represented in Surrey's restaurants. (Gian Paolo Mendoza/CBC)

She says the city'sculinary landscape has grown up over the last few decades, particularly within the last five to seven years.

"There was a time when people didn't know exactly all the spices and techniques, but the bar is really high now," she says.

There used to be an emphasis on Punjabi or northern Indian cuisine, where most of Surrey's South Asian population hails from, she says, but that's changed.

She now sees restaurant menus from every corner of India and even neighbouring countries like Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Owner Richard Hsieh and chef Eddie Chang of Dragon Wok restaurant brought hakka or Indo-Chinese stylings from Kolkata to Surrey.
Owner Richard Hsieh and chef Eddie Chang of Dragon Wok restaurant brought hakka or Indo-Chinese stylings from Kolkata to Surrey. (Gian Paolo Mendoza/CBC)

One of her favourite restaurants in Newton is Dragon Wok anIndo-Chinese restaurantwhoseowners used to liveinKolkata.

That influx of immigrants from all over Asia looking to spread their roots beyond Vancouveris something celebrity chef Vikram Vij says he predicted in 2014.

It's part of why he chose South Surrey to open his secondrestaurant, My Shanti.

Chef Vikram Vij at his restaurant, My Shanti, in Surrey, B.C.
Chef Vikram Vij at his restaurant, My Shanti, in Surrey, B.C. (Gian Paolo Mendoza/CBC)

"I'm truly humbled by it because, I mean, at that time, it was a little bit of a risk," he said.

He says his menu reflects the expanding palate in the city, drawing from his travels in India from Rajasthan to Bangalore.

WATCH | Surrey restaurateurs say international recognition long overdue:

Food & Wine magazine names Surrey, B.C., as one of the top up-and-coming food cities in the world

1 year ago
Duration 7:43
Surrey, B.C., foodies say they've long been singing the praises of the city's culinary scene and are glad to finally see it gain international recognition from Food & Wine magazine.

Black community brings unique flavours

The growing Black populationin Surrey is alsoadding to the vibrancy of the city's food scene.

Chef Tobias Brown says he's managed to carve out a national reputation for himself based on Google reviews for the bestJamaican jerk chicken when it's typically associated with Toronto's vast Caribbean community.

Grilling in a cloud of smoke at the back of an industrial parking lot near the Cloverdale border, Brown says if it weren't for his community,he would've gone unnoticed.

"When I signed the contract that day, there was a tumbleweed that went by, and I was like, 'Oh boy.'"

Tobias Brown says members of the Black community were his first customers, but his following has since grown.
Tobias Brown says members of the Black community were his first customers, but his following has since grown. (Gian Paolo Mendoza/CBC)

Brown says the president of the Black Business Association of B.C. and her family were his very first customers. She helped spread the word online.

Shared cultural experiences are what makes Surrey unique, he says.

"I'm proud of my friends from other countries. I'm proud to get to know them and to taste their food just like they taste our food."