Michelin recognition is a boon for Vancouver and its restaurants, but why all the secrecy? - Action News
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British Columbia

Michelin recognition is a boon for Vancouver and its restaurants, but why all the secrecy?

Eight Vancouver restaurants received a coveted Michelin star this fall, 12 others landed a Bib Gourmand designation, and 40 earned a spot on the guide's recommended list. The Michelin Guide has created a buzz in the city, but its review process and how it was funded in B.C. remain hazy.

Food critics say international guide brings both exposure and pressure for local chefs

A smiling man in a white jacket holds a glass of champagne and a white star symbolizing his restaurant's entry to the Michelin Guide.
Masayoshi Baba of Masayoshi restaurant on Fraser Street in Vancouver celebrates after being awarded a Michelin star on Thursday, Oct. 28, 2022. (Arrthy Thayaparan/CBC)

France's internationally renowned Michelin Guide came to Canada this year, first visiting Toronto and thenrecognizing60 restaurants in Vancouver eight of whichearned a single Michelin star.

Restaurant owners say it's a bigdeal because it putsthem on the map as a worldwide culinary destination and createsa buzz amonglocals,who might be enticed to try something new or visit a place they hadn't heard ofbefore.

"It shows that whatever we're doing, we're doing it right," said Alberto Mura,the general manager of Italian restaurant Carlino, one of the Michelin Guide's 40 recommendations in Vancouver.

"I think we're going to have more business coming in," he said, adding that he feels he and his staff are more motivatedand proud of their work thanks to the new recognition.

But neither Muranor anyone else outside of the Michelin Guide knows the details of the rating systemused to rankhis restaurant.

According to Alexandra Gill, theB.C. restaurant critic for the Globe andMail, that's partly out of necessity.

"The anonymity of the inspectors is its greatest strength," she said in an interview. "It's what gives it legitimacy and authority because nobody knows who they are. Nobody can buy their votes."

"But the whole process is shrouded in secrecy, and some of it seems disingenuous."

CBC's Front Burner looks at the controversy during Michelin's visit to Toronto:

Right now, undercover inspectors from Frances prestigious Michelin Guide are visiting Canada for the first time, to decide if any of Torontos restaurants are worthy of a coveted Michelin Star.Getting that designation from the de facto gastronomical authority can propel a chef and their restaurant to stardom. But the Michelin Guide has also been plagued with allegations of bias, elitism, putting dangerous levels of strain on chefs, and ignoring how the workers making the food are treated. Today, food writers Nancy Matsumoto and Corey Mintz join us to hash out what the guides arrival in Canada could mean for a beleaguered industry and whether it even matters.

Traditionally, Michelin stars were reserved for expensive, fine-dining restaurants with white tablecloths, says Gill. That seems to be changing, as the guide embraces more casual fare done well, but Gill says it also appears there are different standards for different cities.

"The great thing about the Vancouver award is that it really captured what we do best here," she said, highlighting the prominence of Asian cuisine, casual dining and farm-to-table cooking in the guide's selections.

"When you look at it from a global perspective, and you look at the other Michelin Guides, it seems a little weird," she added, wondering whetherMichelin's inspectorsusethe same review process in each city theyvisit.

Michelin stars a double-edged sword, Top Chef Canada judge says

Mijune Pak, a judge on the cooking show Top Chef Canada andhost ofthe Michelin awardsin Vancouver, says earning a Michelin star gives restaurants a lot of exposure but also creates extremely high expectations.

"It's one of the few awards where you can lose it," she said in an interview.

Pak explainsthat the guide's anonymous inspectors will eventually returnto all of the restaurants that earned an award or recommendation and decide whether they still deserve the honour.

"There's so much pressure riding on that," she said.

While the threat of losing their status on the Michelin guidecanbe stressful forchefs and their teams, Pak says it's also a recipe for excellence settingan international standard for restaurants to strive for.

Alexandra Gill, the B.C. restaurant critic for the Globe and Mail, says the Michelin Guide is 'shrouded in secrecy' and has to be funded by local tourism boards in order to expand. The guide came to Canada for the first time this year, adding restaurants in Toronto and Vancouver to its recommendations. (Maggie Macpherson/CBC)

Gill says international touristshave long asked her why the city didn't have any Michelin-starred restaurants, butas the guide expands worldwide, it has to be sponsored and funded.

Michelin's arrival in Canada was part ofa multi-year funding deal with tourism boards to help the hospitality industry bounce back fromthe pandemic.

"I don't know how much money was paid, but Destination Vancouver gave a large sum and a commitment for five years," said Gill, explaining that the process here was separate from Toronto's.

Destination Vancouver declined multiple requests for an interview but said in an email that it was working with Michelin "on marketing and promotional efforts only."

In a statement from Michelin North America, Andrew Festa credited the quality of the city's culinary scene for getting the guide's attention.

"Destination marketing organizations (convention andvisitor bureaus) cover some of the costs incurred in establishing the Michelin Guide in a new location," Festa said. "This is to fund communication, digital and marketing campaigns to promote the selections."

B.C.'s Tourism Ministry told CBC it did not have a role in the Michelin Guide campaign. Destination Canada said thelocal chapter handled everything related to the Vancouver bid.

A group of eight people stand on a red-carpeted stage.
Kissa Tanto in Vancouver's Chinatown neighbourhood was recognized by the Michelin Guide for chef Joel Watanabes (fourth from right) blend of Italian and Japanese cuisine. Mijune Pak (far left) says a Michelin star comes with a lot of recognition and pressure to continually meet the guide's expectations. (Arrthy Thayaparan/CBC)

Gill says tourism marketing boards all over the world pay for the Michelin Guide to come to their cities.

"I don't necessarily think that's a bad thing," she said. "If you want to have anonymous inspectors and you want them to do a proper job, you have to pay for meals ... their airfare and their hotels."

She says the buzz around the awards has stuck around, and the next tourist season should be a big one for Vancouver's restaurants. Even as British Columbians deal with inflation and the rising cost of living, she says many of the restaurants added to the Michelin Guide are still reasonably priced.

"There's definitely something for everyone on this list," she said. "The Bib Gourmands are good value for money ... and there's some great small restaurants on there."

"Compared to the international standards for Michelin Guide restaurants, they are really accessible."