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British Columbia

New cookbook highlights the need for sustainable seafood

B.C. Chef Ned Bell has released his first cookbook, full of sustainable seafood recipes meant to promote responsible ocean awareness.

Smoked sea salt scones and seaweed brownies among featured recipes

Chef Ned Bell hopes his new cookbook will raise awareness about sustainable seafood cooking practices, through responsible recipes like seaweed brownies. (Samantha Garvey/CBC)

British Columbians who love to cooknow have a plethora of sustainable seafood recipesto draw from in the new cookbookLure: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the West Coast.

Lureis the first cookbook by prominent B.C. chef Ned Bell. He is the executive chef and ambassador for the Ocean Wise program a Canada-wide ocean protection initiative.

Bellalso works alongside ateam of marine biologists and experts at the Vancouver Aquarium, staying up to date on the latest research for sustainable ocean stewardship.

Speaking with host Sheryl MacKay during CBC's North by Northwest, Bell said the name Lure is meant as a double entendre.

"I want to lure people into the conversation around healthy lakes, oceans and rivers," Bell said.

An ocean of options

Bell recently went on a cross-country bike trip, connecting with chefs in other provinces todiscuss the challenges that arise when seafoodsustainability becomes a goal.

Originally the cookbook was meant to include recipes from the three oceans surrounding Canada, but upon returning to B.C., Bell decided just to focus on the West Coast of North America.

He said North Americans predominantly cookwhitefish, tuna, salmon and shrimp. Cooking the thousands of more diverse options from the ocean can be intimidating for home cooks. But Bell said"cookingdown the food chain," ismore ecologically friendly and something people should be doingmore often.

"First and foremost I want people to eat more vegetables and plants, full stop. Garnished with sustainable seafood? Absolutely," Bell said.

He said there are about 10,000 edible plants in the ocean that can be cooked to perfection. Also, shellfish, geoducks, mussels, clams, oysters, scallops, goose-neck barnacles, herrings, sardines, anchovies and sea urchins are all more sustainable options, Bell said, because they can be cultivated responsibly.

Conscious consumers

But there is a degree of responsibility a cook needs to takewhen trying to cook sustainably, becauseocean ingredients can be harvested according to different standards.

"The best thing you can do is just ask the question, is this seafood sustainable?" Bell said.

Determining seafood's sustainability can be done several ways, the first of which is seeing if it is recommended by Ocean Wise. Bell said the Seafood Watch Program operated by the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the SeaChoiceProgram launched by David Suzuki are also excellent options.

"There are ways you can farm fish responsibly ... We can raise fish on land in a very responsible way, and there are certain species that are raised in the ocean that are also very responsible ... The conversation is not just black and white."

Bell said the conversation around eating seafood responsibly has never been more important, as grim statistics point to a possible global fisheries collapse by 2050 if practices aren't changed.

"It's not our right to just harvest to ocean to the brink of collapse ... We have to continue to be stewards of this ecosystem and be conscious consumers."

With files from North by Northwest