Peak perfection: Alberta Rockies rise as popular ice climbing destination - Action News
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Peak perfection: Alberta Rockies rise as popular ice climbing destination

The sport of ice climbing has been around for years but interest in it has grown exponentially in the last decade.

Long season, solid conditions make Alberta a hot spot for climbers around the world

'The main reason people come to the Canadian Rockies to go ice climbing is we have great ice,' says professional climber Will Gadd. (Jamie McCannel/CBC)

High above the ground in Canmore, Alta., axe-wielding ice climbers are ascending a column of sheer ice that, in other seasons, is a waterfall.

The sport of ice climbing has been around for years but interest in it has grown exponentially in the last decade, saidDave Stark, a Canmore guide and climber since 1989.

Asoperations director for Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, which offers ice climbing experiences in the Canmore and Banff National Park area, Stark saw a drop-off due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Now bookings are coming in frompeople around the world, he said.

"The Canadian Rockies are famous for the waterfall ice and now more people are getting into it," Stark said.

"They're looking for alternate things to do in the winter. Downhill skiing is extremely expensive. Ice climbing might be a little expensive to get into at the startbut once you have the equipment, you're not paying entry fees you're just going out and climbing."

There are almost 1,500 climbing spots, many accessible from the road, in the Canmore and Banff areas, he said.

And while a wall of sheer ice may look daunting to beginners,the sport is fairly easy to learn.

Canmore guide and professional ice climber Will Gadd is seen here climbing Kidd Falls Alberta's Kananaskis Country. (Will Gadd)

"With crampons, which are the spikes on the boots, and the ice axes that you hold in your hands, you always have good holds. You've always got contact with the ice," Stark said.

Of course, variables like ice quality or steepness can make an outing easy or "really hard and miserable." Either way, it will be challenging, he said.

"And that's what most people want, they want a challenge."

Practice ice

In the heart of Edmonton's river valley, theEdmontonIce Wall offers lessons and equipment rental in an effort toremove some challengesfor people looking to try the growing sport.

"People don't have to drive out for hours to the mountains and italso costs them a lot less because if you're in the mountains, you usually have to pay for a guide unless you have friends that are already ice climbers," said instructor Stacey Yuen.

Despite its extreme reputation, experts and guides alike say ice climbing is relatively easy to learn and accessible for all ages and abilities. Perfecting the sport, however, can take a lifetime. (Christian Pondella/Red Bull Content Pool)

Located atthe Edmonton Ski Club, thethree-storeyice wall is an opportunity for a low-stakes attempt at climbing with most newcomers are able to scamper up the wall after a few lessons.

"Usually when we have parentscall us and ask if their kids can come climb.We say if their kid can hammer a nail into a piece of wood, then they're good to go," Yuen said.

Too warm at European hot spots

Most of the world's ice climbing hot spots have been in the European Alps places like Switzerland, Austria and Italy.

But climate change is putting a little too much heat on these hotspots, resulting in unreliable ice conditions,

Ten years ago, ice that formed in December would be climbable through March, said Rob Adie, who helps co-ordinate the ice climbing world tour for the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA).

"Now [the ice] falls down a couple of times a season and then reforms," Adie said from his home in Switzerland.

Adie said North America is gaining popularity in the ice climbing world because of its reliable ice.

"You can go on holiday for a week or two weeks from anywhere in the world to Canada and be able to climb every single day without necessarily having to walk or ski too far," he said.

Ice climbing instructor Stacey Yuen, YEGIce Director Tim Hankinson and reporter Emily Fitzpatrick prepare for a lesson at the three-storey ice wall built in Edmonton's river valley. (David Bajer/CBC)

The Canadian Rockies also boast a longer ice-climbing season, says Canmore guide and professional climber Will Gadd.

"We are one of the only places in the world that has reliable ice climbing from November through April," Gadd said. "We've got a good solid six- or seven-month season and very few places in the world have that."

Between that and the booming popularity among local climbers, Stark said it's rare to get an ice wall to yourself anymore.

"Sometimes you're lining up for it and people are lining up behind you waiting to go."