Twyla Campbell: Alberta Hotel Bar & Kitchen needs some work

A new restauranttaking up residence in the iconic Alberta Hotel is falling short of its landmark status, according to Edmonton AM food reviewer Twyla Campbell.

The Alberta Hotel Bar & Kitchen, on the corner of 98th Street and Jasper Avenue, held its grand opening Thursday night. The building had stood vacant for more than a year after Tavern 1903 shuttered its doors.

Hotel Bar & Kitchen chef Spencer Thompson and bartender Brandon Baker are hoping to turn their restaurant into a culinary hot spot, but lacklustre cocktails and a few bland dishes left Campbell feeling unsatisfied.

"A lot the dishes were underseasoned, and visually, they're lacking some pizazz."

With a menu of hearty, locally sourced meals, an impressive dining space and inviting bar, Campbell saidthe restaurant could be the perfect fit for Edmonton's food scene.

"It's interesting food, but not over the top," Campbell said. "Overall, I give them my thumbs up, but just by a smidgen."

However, Campbell found the Bratwurst burger "perfectly juicy, perfectly seasoned," with a side order of hot, crisp fries and aioli.

"It was so juicy, and some really great seasonings in there. It's been a long time since I've had a really good burger. This was very satisfying."

The marrow-stuffed agnolotti was the standout dish for Campbell, but other entrees on the dinner menu lacked seasoning. Half of the $35 Alberta Duo beef dish impressed Campbell; she was satisfied with the braised beef, but the lacklustre beef flank left her wanting.

If you're in the mood for a highball, you can get a two- to three-ounce cocktail for $13. And Campbell thinks the price is right, but some of the drinks are hard to swallow.

For instance, Campbell says the "Absent Sun" resembled men's cologne and was garnished with a half-dead rosemary sprig.

"If you're going to talk big about cocktails, you need to deliver."

Campbell will be returning for another taste of the menu and another round of cocktails, but she saidthe owners will have to step up their game if they want to live up to the building's landmark status.

"This place has huge potential. It's great for lunch and dinner, but these issues need to be addressed . . . . Edmontonians expect a lot. They are a tough crowd."

You can hear Campbell's reviews on Edmonton AM every second Friday. You can also see more of her reviews on her blog, Weird Wild and Wonderful, and can follow her on Twitter at @wanderwoman10.