As food costs rise, restaurants plate up Waterloo region produce: Andrew Coppolino - Action News
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Kitchener-Waterloo

As food costs rise, restaurants plate up Waterloo region produce: Andrew Coppolino

As the pandemic has upset supply lines, the cost of food includinganimal proteins continues to rise. That has local restaurants turning to the bounty of Waterloo region to meet the robust demand for more vegetables and vegan options.

'Ontario local farms are some of the best,' says HarrisonPhillips of Yeti Caf

Mike Duerrstein at Cafe Pyrus makes one of the restaurant's Mighty McGreens sandwiches with tempeh bacon and local microgreens. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Vegetarian and vegan options at local restaurants are robust especially at this timeof the year with the bounty of fresh produce coming from area farms.

While the pandemic has upset supply lines and has seen the prices for food, includinganimal proteins, continue to rise, the demand for more vegetables and vegan options isrobust.

More chefs are reducing the amount of animal protein that finds its way to the centre of theplate. As well, more and more cooks are adopting vegetarian diets and they welcomethe fresh, local produce that is available now more than any other time of the year.

"More than half of our menu is vegetarian, and although it's not our sole focus I do like toeat that way and I do like to cook that way," said Marc Lecompte of Waterloo's PrincessCaf. "A lot of our customers lean in that direction as well."

Princess Caf recently won an award in an Uptown Waterloo food event for tastiest dish. Theirvegetarian "Big Marc" was a grilled halloumi sandwich that riffedon the burger classic (withits 1970s TV jingle): special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun, butwithout the two all-beef patties of the Big Mac.

Marc Lecompte and his award-winning Big Marc halloumi sandwich at Princess Cafe in uptown Waterloo. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Fresher and cheaper produce

Using local vegetables, especially at this time of the year, can save restaurants somefood costs. You will regularly find Zeljko Loncar of Kitchener's 271 West shopping at theKitchener Market, a trip he says he makes weekly.

Flexibility is key too. At Yeti Caf across from the Kitchener Market, most dishes caninclude substitutions to make them vegetarian or vegan, according to cook HarrisonPhillips.

"You can basically control the menu and swap and add what you want. We try toaccommodate as much as we can, but everything is basically vegetarian and vegancapable," he said.

Harrison Phillips at Yeti Cafe says most dishes on their menu can be easily tweaked to make them vegetarian or vegan. All you have to do is ask. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Though it is met with scepticism, fast-food restaurants such as A&W have heavily promoted their plant-based and sustainability efforts. But many of the finer dining restaurants in the region the Wildcrafts and Bauer Kitchens of the dining scene have also grown theirplant-based menus dramatically.

At the same time, smaller niche restaurants that have made their name in servingvegetarian and vegan dishes have seen increased demand for what they prepare as theycalculate the cost to the environment of eating meat, including how much water is needed in its production.

Having moved from Charles Street to the corner of King and Water streets in Kitchener, CafPyrus has long been a go-to for vegetarian and vegan options and theircontinued quest for sustainable products, including packaging, and stewardship of theenvironment.

Clientele have climate concerns

Waterloo region recently experienced a smokey haze in the air caused by northern Ontariowildfires; that phenomenon virtually coincided with the Intergovernmental Panel onClimate Change report and its alarming findings.

Pyrus operations manager Tory Shantz says many of their customers say they are looking at food choices in the (hazy) light ofenvironmental concerns.

"I think people are definitely more aware of the climate crisis we are in and eatingvegetarian, vegan or plant-based primarily does play a huge role in that. I think people aremore aware of that than they have ever been," said Shantz.

The Pyrus kitchen, Shantz said, focuses on local, seasonal and accessible for thecommunity.

"A lot of that is found in our monthly specials with produce we can only get inthe summer. This month, we are featuring local microgreens," she added.

The source for those greens is the Working Centre Garden.

Of course, in an era where some diners have been reluctant to go back inside dining rooms,restaurants are eager to please and want to make sure they are accessible and appealing toall potential and hard-won customers.

At Abe Erb Waterloo, the kitchen is re-vamping its menu, after having re-opened under new management,to ensure that there's a wide appeal to more than those diners who want aburger with their fresh, local beer.

Mike de Jonge sautes fresh veg at Abe Erb. The restaurant is now under new management and de Jonge is revamping the menu to include more vegetable-based sides. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

"There's going to be a lot of vegetarian items," said Abe Erb executive chef Mike de Jonge.

"Our veggies that go as sides will be changing so we have more fresh and local. It's more orless to get people who have dietary restrictions or religious reasons to be able to come inand enjoy the food. But also, you don't want to go to a meat-heavy place as a vegetarian andfeel awkward in a party."

With its cohort of dedicated customers and fans, Phillips at Yeti says that their popularFrench omelette uses local vegetables and greens from Fertile Groundof St. Agatha,adding that good quality products simply come of good relationships with producers.

"The best way to do that is with local farms," says Phillips of how much customersappreciate fresh produce. "Ontario local farms are some of the best. Those connectionsmake our end product that much better."