5 visits to add to your life list during Manitoba's 150th - Action News
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Manitoba

5 visits to add to your life list during Manitoba's 150th

Officially, this is the year the province turns 150. In reality, people have lived on this land mass for at least 11,000 years. Here are five places that deserve to be on your life list, whether you get to them during Manitoba 150 or not.

The province is vast. Go see some of it this year.

The MV Ithaca ran aground at Bird Cove, east of Churchill, in 1960. You can walk to the wreck of the freighter at low tide; a shotgun escort is recommended, due to the possibility of encountering polar bears. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

Whether you've lived in Manitoba for 16 seconds or have spent your entire life in the province, you probably haven't seen much of the place.

That's because Manitoba is big. It's larger than France, Spain or Ukraine. It could swallow up three Cambodias, five North Koreas or six Icelands and still have room for an Albania or Jamaica for dessert.

Since it would take a lifetime to traverse every corner of Manitoba on foot, a more realistic goal is to consider seeing more of it than you have.

Here are five ways to see Manitoba that deserve to be on your life list, whether you get to them during Manitoba's official 150th birthday year or not:

1. Visit Churchill in the summer

Churchill, the only ocean port in the Prairie provinces, is most famous for the polar bears that congregate east of the town in late October as they wait for Hudson Bay to freeze.

Polar bears are amazing. But there's more to see in Churchill during the summer, when thousands of beluga whales congregate in the Churchill River estuary, the sub-Arctic landscape blooms and the oddball sites around the town are more easily visited.

Beluga whales often approach Zodiacs and kayaks in the Churchill River estuary. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

Thoseinclude the remains of a shipwrecked freighter, a crashed airplane, an abandoned radar installation, an old rocket range and a highly Instagrammablecollection of abandoned automobiles.

Why so many cars? It's simply too expensive to ship heavy objects out of the end-of-the-railway town.

Also take the time to learn about one of the darkest chapters in Manitoba's modern history: the forced relocation of the Sayisi Dene to Churchill. The remains ofthe places described in Ila Bussidor's Night Spirits, an account of the 1956-73 tragedy,are all road-accessible.

The town is not what tourists may expect and that's the attraction.

2. Ski (or walk) acrossLake Winnipeg

Every summer weekend, tens of thousands of Manitobanssun themselves on the beaches of Lake Winnipeg's sandy southern basin.

It may look more like an ocean than a lake. But you can actually walk right across it when it freezes in winter.

The best time to traverse Lake Winnipeg on foot is March, when the lake remains frozen solid but temperatures are milder and there's more daylight. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

It's only 27kilometres from Grand Beach to Winnipeg Beach, or vice versa. People on cross-country skis can cover the distance in a matter of hours.

On snowshoes, it's an easytwo-day trip, assuming you camp out in the middle in a winter tent. Make you sure you bring along a GPS, or at least a compass, in the eventblowing snow obscures the horizon on the other side.

Pressure ridges on Lake Winnipeg appear to be mountains from a distance but turn out to be only a metre high. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

3. Find your way to York Factory

During the 200 years that preceded Manitoba's 1870 entry into Confederation, the most important European settlement in this place was also among the most remote.

York Factory, the Hudson's Bay Company's Manitoba base of operations near the mouth of the Hayes River, served as the most important point of entry into what's now Western Canada, for traders and settlers alike.

At its peak, York Factory supported a community of hundreds people, both European and Indigenous. Today, two Parks Canada interpreters look after the site from late June until the end of August.

Hudson's Bay Company established York Factory near the mouth of the Hayes River in 1670. In the late 1700s and early 1800s, it was the most important entryway into what would become Western Canada. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

The old depot still stands, bulging with artifacts from a history that included Manitoba's only naval battle, which saw French forces briefly wrest York Factory away from the British traders who established the place. You can also stay here in a campground surrounded by a very high, polar bear-proof fence.

The cheapest way to visit York Factory is to paddle the Hayes River, a once-in-a-lifetime destination in its own right. But this takes at least eight days startingfrom Bunibonibee Cree Nation, or weeks from Norway House.

A day-trip option involves making your way to Gillam and booking a speedboat tour with Nelson River Adventures. A total of 12 people can ride at a time.

The people of Gillamand nearby Fox Lake Cree Nation could certainly use some love this summer, after the fright they experienced in 2019.

Thousands of fur trade-era artifacts are on display within York Factory's depot. Hundreds more are found every year, as the shore erodes. (Bartley Kicves/CBC)

4. Paddle the Bloodvein

Compared to York Factory, the Bloodvein River is not remote. But this ribbon of whitewater, which flows through Manitoba from the Ontario border to Lake Winnipeg, remains entirelyunspoiled.

The Bloodvein is amongthe most scenic of eastern Manitoba rivers. It snakes through granite channels, broadens out into small lakes and exemplifies the best of Canadian Shield scenery.

The Bloodvein River can be paddled by anyone with backcountry camping experience and basic whitewater skills. All of its challenging rapids can be portaged. (Brenda Rempel)

It also boasts excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, good fishing and a spectacular Indigenous pictograph site at Artery Lake, just across the provincial border with Ontario(while 2020 is officially Manitoba's 150th birthday, remember that peoplehave been living on this land mass for at least 11,000 years).

Anyone with backcountry camping experience and passable paddling skillscan canoe this river, with a bit of preparation. All the difficult rapids can be portaged.

Most visitors fly into Artery Lake from Bluewater Aviation's airbase at Bissett, but there are ways to paddle in.

A still, early morning moment on the Bloodvein. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

5. Backpack the Mantario Trail

For experienced hikers, the Mantario is no life-list destination. Some people walk or even run the 66-kilometre trail in Whiteshell Provincial Park every year.

But the Mantario remains the premiere multi-day walk in Manitoba. It's easy to reach, with both trailheads located less than two hours east of Winnipeg. The Shield scenery is stunning and the campsites are large enough to support multiple groups.

The 66-kilometre Mantario Trail is best hiked in September, when conditions are dry underfoot and insects are absent. (Bartley Kives/CBC)

Navigation is relatively easy, provided you don't lose sight of rock cairns. And it's also just tough enough to serve as a workout.

The best time to go is September, when the trail is dry, the mosquitoes are gone and the daytime highs are tolerable for those lugging a pack.

The Canadian Shield country along the Mantario Trail is a kaleidoscope of colours during the fall. (Bartley Kives/CBC)