Winnipegger shares Arctic history, information, aboard Crystal Serenity cruise ship

Margaret Bertulli is no stranger to Canada's north, so it would seem taking a luxury cruise through the Northwest Passage wouldn't be worth the weeks of travel though the cold, desolate waters or the hefty price tag.

But the Winnipeg archeologist, who worked in the Arctic for more than three decades, wasn't there for the sleek, sexy boutiques or to wear expensive, glamorous outfits. She was there to work,to teach the Crystal Serenity's 1,000 passengers and 600 crew members about Canada's north and the Northwest Passage.

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"I was very excited, I really wanted to do that," she told CBC News on Saturday. "I was interested to see how they would combine luxury cruising and the expedition aspect of touring in the north."

The mammoth ship just wrapped up its inaugural 32-dayvoyage though the north, marking the start of a new era in Arctic tourism. Some people paid up to $156,000 for a spot on the ship. Some raised questions about safety concerns while others criticized the environmental impact the massive ship would have.

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Although Bertulli boarded in the Northwest Territories and got off in Greenland, the ship's journey started in Anchorage, Alaska in August and recently ended in New York City.

Bertulligave lectures and information sessions aboard the ship but part of her job was also to be a guide and a link between the ship's passengers and the people in the small communities where it stopped.

Locals welcoming of tourists

"People were really, really welcoming. They were really happy to have the opportunity to enjoy some economic benefits from the ship," she said. "They really put on some excellent displays and had some excellent crafts and artwork for sale."

Some communities, like Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, saw their populations more than double when the ship docked and the passengers got off to explore and buy local art and goods.

One stop in particular she remembers fondly was a stop at Beechey Island, where three members of the Franklin Expedition are buried. Bertulli's been there many times.

But this visit was different.

"It was a very cold day and very overcast so it was quiet," Bertulli said. "They [ship passengers] would walk up from the beach to the graves ... and speak with me, get some information and then tour around the rest of the site."

Bertulli said some people didn't know much about the site or the expedition so she was able to share her knowledge and show the group the grave markers and plaquesshe helped maintain years ago.

"They were all quite excited to be there," she added.

Arctic warmer than before

Bertulli said the Arctic today is much warmer than she remembers it and there's also a lot less sea ice. But having a ship and a hot shower to return to was a lot more than the tent camps she stayed in while working in the north years ago.

She said she's been asked to do similar expeditions in the future, a request she is considering.

"I certainly would love to return," she said.