KTZ fashion under fire for using Inuit design without family's consent

The U.K.-based fashion label KTZ'sfall2015 men'scollection includes a number of garments based on traditional Inuit designs and asweater thatappears to be a replicaof a shaman's jacket, whichaNunavut woman says wasused without her family's consent.

"I was in shock, I was furious, I was angry," said Salome Awa, who works as a morning show producer at CBC Nunavut.

"This is my great-grandfather's sacredgarment copied right down to the tee."

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It's the second year in a rowthatKTZ has been accused of copying a garment based on an indigenous design. Last year it came under fire for allegedly copying a dress from Bethany Yellowtail, a Northern Cheyenne/Crow designer from Montana. Twitter erupted with support for Yellowtail.

According to Awa, the original designwas envisioned by her great-grandfather, who was a shaman, in a dream. Awa said her great grandfather had a vision of being drowned and created the garment with the help of his family to protect him.

"He wanted to make images of hands so when someone tried to drown him they would protect him," said Awa.

A photo of Awa's great grandfather, as well as his story, is featured in the book Northern Voices: Inuit Writing in English. A replica of the garment was also displayed in the 2006 film The Journals of Knud Rasmussen.

A version of the designcalled shaman toweling sweatshirtis available on KTZ's website. It's priced at approximately $845.

"There has to be some kind of mechanism inplace to say you just cannot copy aboriginal or Inuit designs and make money off it," said Awa.

Awa is in the process of obtaining legal advice on the case after an unsuccessful attempt tocontact KTZ.

KTZ makes high-end ready-to-wear clothing for men and women. On itswebsite, the companybrands itselfas creating clothing "known for its raw energy and contemporary urban edge, but also for embracing ethnographic references and multiculturalism."

Indigenous designs a fashion trend

"Indigenous people and our culture have become a hot commodity lately," saidInukfashion designerMelodieHaana-SikSikLavalle, pointing to an Inuit-inspired jacket Jennifer Lopez wore by DSquared2's controversial fall 2015 "Dsquaw" line.

"I always hope that they actually consulted somebody within a community, and if they're going to use their design they do it in collaboration with them," said Lavalle.

CBC contacted MarjanPejoski,KTZ's creative director. He has yet torespond.