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Pink Tartan tests see-now/buy-now model currently disrupting fashion industry

In an era where smartphones, social media and live streaming fuel the desire for immediate gratification, the fashion world is undergoing a major disruption, with Canadian designer Pink Tartan the latest to join the likes of Burberry and Tom Ford in adopting a see-now/buy-now model for introducing new collections.

'It's about getting [customer] response immediately,' says designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran

With Pink Tartan's fall/winter 2016 collection, the label has joined the see-now/buy now movement: an answer to customers' demand for immediate gratification in an era of smartphones, social media and live streaming of fashion runway shows. (CBC)

In an era where smartphones, social media and livestreaming fuel the desire for immediate gratification, the fashion world is undergoing a major disruption, with Canadian designer Pink Tartan the latest to join the likes of Burberry and Tom Ford in adopting a see-now/buy-now model for introducing new collections.

The Canadian design house unveiled its fall/winter 2016 collection at a special event Tuesday evening one atypicallyheld outside of Toronto Fashion Week with the buyers in attendance able to instantly order the clothes literally being modelled before them.

"You get an instant reaction digitally. Now, you see fashion so quickly, so it's really about connecting with [who's in your front row] versus waiting for it to go through all of the stages," Pink Tartan designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran told CBC News after the collection's debut.

"It's about getting the response immediately," she added. "It's a way of gauging what my customers, who love the brand, are going to be wearing."

Immediate fashion at your fingertips

8 years ago
Duration 1:07
With its fall/winter 2016 collection, Pink Tartan is joining the see-now/buy-now wave currently disrupting the fashion industry.

Traditionally, designers create new collections full of samples, which are shown at runway shows. Buyers in attendance subsequently place orders, while fashion media highlight these new collections in editorial spreads. The clothing is produced and eventually reach retailers usuallyfour to sixmonths later.

However, with fashion shows having become public-facing events captured and immediately shared around the globe via social media and streaming, consumers worldwide are demanding new designs more quickly or turning to fast-fashion retailers for hastily made copies.

Burberry's Christian Bailey and Tom Ford announced in February they would move tothe see-now/buy-now model this fall, so customers can snap up their latest designs after they appear on the runway.

Under the see-now/buy now model, customers can snap up new collections immediately, whether online or in stores. (CBC)

"The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves," Bailey said in a statement.

Ford added, in a separate release, that "in a world that has become increasingly immediate, the current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense."

Other labels including Chanel, Prada, Monique Lhullier, Moschino, Versace and Rebecca Minkoff have been testing the waters bymakingselect piecesimmediately available for sale after their runway shows.

Indie designers sound the alarm

However, while bloggers and fashion fans might be cheering this shift, many smallerdesigners are sounding the alarm, saying it could put many companies out of business.

Unlike giants like Burberry and Tom Ford, indie brands don't typically have dedicated manufacturing facilities and aren't able to fulfill orders as quickly.

The shift to see-now/buy-nowwould force designers to guess which items will be big sellers andmove the cost of manufacturingthe entire collectionupfront, without a guarantee of sales, whichmany have said they cannot afford.

The administrative body of French fashion designers also rejected the shift.

"I was really excited just to see what the customer wants and how they responded to the collection," Pink Tartan designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran said of her see-now/buy now event on Tuesday in Toronto. (CBC)

This new model works for "marketing-driven brands," but would compromise the quality of work by French fashion designers, group president Ralph Toledano told Women's Wear Daily.

For Pink Tartan'sNewport-Mimran, however, the goal is to connect more directlywith her customers.

"Iwas really excited just to see what the customer wants and how they responded to the collection," she said of Tuesday'sevent.

"They will be the first ones... to get the collection before it even gets to stores," she said. "For me, it's about inspiring people to get dressed."

With files from Tashauna Reid