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Manitoba

2 new Indigenous-owned restaurants in Thompson serve up home-cooked meals in tough financial climate

Two new Indigenous-owned eateries in Thompson, Man., are trying to carve out a space for themselves in the restaurant landscape of the northern city using modern takes on traditional, homemade recipes.

Thompson Chamber of Commerce says new restaurants are good news for wider economy in the north

A woman in a green shirt holds up a plate of fries and a burger. She's standing in front of a commercial kitchen.
Kaytlyn Bentley holds up a plate of food prepared by the kitchen staff at Ma-Mow-We-Tak Friendship Centre's restaurant. (Rachel Bergen/CBC)

KaytlynBentley passes a plate of food to a customer while greeting another regular with an easy smile.

"Welcome to the friendship centre," she says as a flurry of kitchen workers prepare homemade soups, shepherd's pie, bannock and other foods at the Ma-Mow-We-Tak Friendship Centre in Thompson, Man.

The friendship centre'scaf, which opened this spring, is one of two new Indigenous-owned-and-operated eateries that opened in the northern city over the last year.

Tanika Beebe-Brand, who oversees the restaurant for the friendship centre, says the organization had run a successful catering operation for years and saw asignificant increase in business it was gettingat one point.

"Obviously people loved our food, so we thought, well, why not open the restaurant?" she said in an interview last week.

A beige stucco building with a wheelchair ramp on the outside is pictured on a summer day. The building's sign says
Ma-Mow-We-Tak Friendship Centre in Thompson, Man., opened a restaurant in April to help fund its programming. (Rachel Bergen/CBC)

Bentley works as an event promoter with the friendship centre when she's not behind the till, and calls the friendship centre a one-stop shop.

"You can come here and get your breakfast, get your resum done, find a job while you're at it or if you need help with government forms and you want to have a lunch or just a coffee date, it's good."

Kelvin Lynxleg eats at the friendship centre almost daily and says it's a very welcoming and friendly environment.

"It's very Indigenous friendly. You can hear the staff laughing from the kitchen, joking with one another. It's very comforting," she said while at lunch last week.

"It's really nice to just kind of relax and and see other people from the community and and just come to enjoy some good food."

A woman with long dark hair in a lacy black top smiles for the camera in a restaurant.
Kelvin Lynxleg says she loves the food and the atmosphere at the Ma-Mow-We-Tak Friendship Centre restaurant. (Rachel Bergen/CBC)

A few months before the opening of the friendship centre restaurant,Edward Neepin and Miranda Garson startedLil' Bannockson Station Road, near the City Centre shopping mall.

Neepin, who was born and raised in Thompsonbut has ties to Fox Lake Cree Nation, is a Red Seal chefwho was inspired by watching his aunties and grandparents cooking traditional foods.

"My original plan was to kind of learn traditional cooking and then turn it into something not modern, but something Ican present to the rest of the world as this is Indigenous, but it's beentweaked, I guess you could say," he said.

Garson, his partner in life and business, grew up in Tataskweyak Cree Nation and got into the food business after watching her family members hunt, trap, gather and prepare their own foods.

From there, she became inspired to start Lil' Bannocks with Neepin and get creative with their menu.

Challenging climate

Neepin said the business, a small, three-table dining room,has started off slow, but he still has big dreams for its success.

"We're still trying to find a rhythm for ourselves, balancing between running thekitchen, plus family at home," he said.

In Thompson, people's interests are piquedby what's new and exciting, Neepin said.

"Interests sway back and forth here in town. When something new pops up we like to overwhelm it, and then it's almost like testing it and then everyonejust seems to kind of back off because the fad is done."

A man and a woman in black shirts and sunglasses hold a sign that says,
Edward Neepin and Miranda Garson are the owners of Lil' Bannocks in Thompson, Man. They say opening a business in Thompson has been a bit challenging, but they have dreams of expanding the restaurant in the future. (Rachel Bergen/CBC)

Lil' Bannocks has a few regulars who come by nearly daily, especially for thebannock taco, which is a crowd-pleaser, he and Garson said.

Debra Pouliot, manager of the Thompson Chamber of Commerce, said restaurants aren't the only businesses that are facing challenges in Thompson.

"The biggest problem I keep hearing is lack of workers. They're having a hard time keeping staff, they're cutting hours and being closedon days they would normally be open because of a lack of staff," she said.

To see two businesses open in the last nine months is a positive signal, though, she said.

"It's just great news for Thompson. We need more business, we need more economic growth."

Neepin and Garson dream of eventually expanding their dining room so people can eat their meals on glass plates, rather than in paper.

"That's one thing I haven't been able to showcase is my plating, because itmostly just gets stuffed in a box or right now, throwninto a basket," Neepin said with a laugh.

"It's very, very humble beginnings right now, but I really want to showcase how I can actually present food as well."

A man in a Winnipeg Blue Bombers t-shirt holds a plate with a bowl of soup and a sandwich on it in a restaurant.
A customer of the Ma-Mow-We-Tak Friendship Centre restaurant holds a plate of food. The staff at the Friendship Centre hope the restaurant's profits will help cover the costs of their community programming. (Rachel Bergen/CBC)

Meanwhile,Beebe-Brand looks forward to using the friendship centre restaurant's profits to help fundprogramming.

"Any profits that we make inany of our business aspects of our organization, we utilize those funds to create more programs for the community," she said.

"I think that we're a very significant role player in offering, like, programs and services for the community."

Thompson restaurant serves up home-cooked meals in tough financial climate

1 year ago
Duration 1:11
Two new Indigenous-owned restaurants have opened in Thompson in the last nine months. The Thompson Chamber of Commerce says it's pleased to see more Indigenous-owned businesses popping up in the area, calling it great news for the northern city.