So Im pretty sure my knees will never be the same again, but I did it. I trekked the Three Passes. And despite swearing blind that I wouldnt go rogue, I did it without the aid of a guide or porter.
Thats three wintery weeks of traipsing through the Himalayas, navigating trails, carrying my own equipment and generally being a badass (albeit an exhausted one). Do I sound proud of myself? I am. #SorryNotSorry